Antique late Edwardian revolutionary silk evening dress c1911. Please read the details at the foot of this page. If you are not able to read English fluently, please use Google Translate to ensure you understand the description thoroughly. Or perhaps a beautiful skirt? Do browse at your leisure....
For the evening or for visiting, M'Lady? I'm sure we will have something to your liking in the GOWN & COSTUME Department of Poppies Cottage...
The History: This fashion revolution began around 1906, when the famous Poiret began to imagine the female form without the restricting s-shaped corset. His fashion design revolution appears to have been slow for the first few years, and only emerged in 1910-11 as a full trend in high society. By this time, Worth and Paquin were following suit.From 1910 until circa 1916, just a 6 year, the shape of women's clothes was transformed from the s-shape severe corset to the high waisted, sleek and complex gown you see here. Poiret was influenced by several changes in the World of fabrics. First, there was the debut of the'Ballets Russes' in 1909, and the consequent influence of all things Far Eastern. This included Japan, and the kimono. Poriet's famous'Kimono coat' of 1909, has a clear influence on this fashion revolution. You will find it on page 349 [Vol 2] Kyoto Costume Institute [see references below]. Look at the features - the sharp, slim train; the cross-over skirt front; the skirt segmented to show off the luxury fabric underneath; the deep belt with it's high waist; the dolman style sleeves in kimono style.
Another almost identical dress is sketched by Nancy Bradfield [pages 333-334] See ref below. This one came from Chastleton House and she noted the a-symmetrical shapes and the weights inside the narrow train.
The dress: Simply smothered in lace, with a fluid soft silk for the base, this circa 1911 dress is such a wonderful example of this period in history. A revolutionary dress for the new emancipated lady!
The photo's show the details, I think. It is very complex and would still require a maid to put it on the lady! It is finely and completely hand stitched. Unusually, chine silk has been used for the deep and pleated a-symmetric belt - I always think of chine as being earlier. Perhaps it had sentimental value for the lady.
If you can see any details, please do ask, and I can therefor focus on the condition, which is largely very good for age. Condition: The silk is very soft and flowing, remarkable for this period. There is no exterior splitting or damage to the silk. The lace is amazing and very lightweight and almost all of it is very good indeed. There is minor damage to the'crackle net' that forms part of the lace, which I think is chemical for most part.
There is masses of soutache braiding, very fine, that is all excellent. The beautiful chine silk waist band is very interesting. The'belt' extends right down the skirt and is enveloped by the lace at the lower thigh.
It is possible to reach the chine silk through the lace and I wonder if this was to help the lady lift the gown when she was walking? This chine silk, heavily pleated, is beginning to split in several places, but this is not noticeable.The lovely diamontes are still bright and are encased in tiny holders that have no colour. Some of the diamontes are missing and you may be able to replace them in the cases. Glass beading around the neck is lovely. The ends of the narrow train are a little grubby and the weights still present have made a hole to the silk at the very edge.
Easy to fold over a little to hide this. The exterior dolman shaped underarms are excellent, but the lining is very poor at the underarms and surrounding area. I think this lining needs to be removed to prevent further damage.
This will not harm the outer gown. Hooks are missing at the under skirt fastenings - easy to replace. Finally, the side of the skirt has three rows of careful stitching, hidden below the chine silk belt. I do not really understand this. It might be that the gown was altered from a Court dress with hooped side panels.
But is could also be the shapig of the complex skirt layers. I truly do not know. It cannot be seen and does not alter the true appearance of this revolutionary evening gown! Fitting my mannequin like a glove, her measurements are chest 34", waist 24", hips 35. A very rare dress from a 6 years fashion window.
I have included references of further reading for you below. References: Kyoto Costume Institute'Fashion. A History from the 18th to the 20th Century. Vol 2, p340-350 & 366-369. Please do take a look in my shop if you have the time!
Show off your items with Auctiva's Listing Templates. The item "Smothered in lace!Antique late Edwardian revolutionary silk evening dress c1911" is in sale since Wednesday, March 16, 2016. This item is in the category "Clothes, Shoes & Accessories\Vintage Clothing & Accessories\Women's Vintage Clothing\Dresses". The seller is "poppy1109" and is located in Rochester, Kent. This item can be shipped worldwide.